Since the rust layer was applied, a lot has changed in the plans for completing that project. After the first camouflage color, which was pale green, a hairspray layer was applied. It went OK, and with the few chips here and there, the rust started to stand out quite nicely.
Then, second layer of hairspray was added. I haven’t sealed the green with any varnish, and that caused the first problem. My hairspray /well, not mine, but the one I use for modeling…/ has the strongest bond formula, and that went kinda harsh on the model. If sealed with varnish it wouldn’t be a problem. If less hairspray used, it wouldn’t be a problem, but the chipping might go wrong /too few chips/. If I used lower grade hairspray – no sealing required, and it would’ve been perfect. However, all those notes above – discovered the hard way. After the hairspray started reacting, it kinda made the green to fade and at some points to show the primer. The good thing was that the points that this happened were few and easily corrected. I waited a bit, and a chipped it again. Thankfully it went OK.
The chips looked nice, but they weren’t up to my requirements. Well, to say it straight – it messed up things a bit. However modeling is about fixing the errors with an idea applied on the next stage. That makes you great modeler, since nothing goes always as planned…
So after chipping with hairspray, to break the tension I added some sponge chips with acrylic paint.
I do that with enamel paint or even oils sometimes, but this is far too early in the building for oils, so – acrylics was the answer. It sorted out the missing chips due to hairspray misuse, and added a different tone of chips. I made them darker when I use sponge, so they will appear “fresh” once applied.
After a day of fresh air and time for everything to cure, I started with oils. OPR as Rinaldi calls it, or Oil Paint Rendering. This is a tricky technique, and you got to have a vision /like he does/ in order to make things right. In my case it helped me fix the hairspray accident, so I welcomed that trick.
With small brush, I fixed almost everything, and added some fresh rust and worn areas. It helped add some dried fuel around the tanks, and some spills here and there.
Painted the base color of the spare tracks – light and dark rust, prepping them for my most favorite pastel treatment – red/black rust application.
I painted the gun mantled, some sponge technique around the meshes, and it was time for pigments…
I tried to add some, but not overdo it, in order to still show the chips and OPR around them.
Once I did everything, I added some highly diluted buff oil paint, to make some dust stains.
Second mishap. Trying to fix the tracks in place, I discovered that this is gonna be rather difficult job, and besides, even with a successful try, the weathering would be limited.
I made up my mind and I ordered Friuls.
I found out that I ordered the old style tracks, the OmSH, when I missed that I am using RmSh.
And again – ordered another set.
These are for T-72 actually, and the sprocket that Friul provides is just the same as used in that kit. So have in mind, that in order to do a standard T-62 with the old style tracks, and using this kit – you WILL need a sprocket for it.
Friul set features sprocket. Not needed in this case.
I made the test fit, – exact same length of the tracks – and once I was happy with the results, I dipped them into blackening liquid. I got this from a friend, who owns TI Hobbies, a company that makes a burnishing liquid. That takes about 20 minutes to darken them from start to finish for both tracks, and 20 more to dry em with hairdryer.
Then another 40 minutes for applying weathering tricks and pigments, and for less then 3 hours with curing time /well, not exactly cured, but manageable/ I was ready to add them to the tank.
Still not weathered…but nice!
It was a hassle fitting those to a glued sprocket /never do that! Ever!/ but I managed it. The tank itself had many mishaps during the build, but in the end, the result was fine enough. Actually, the Friuls were never confirmed part of that build, but they ended up to really make it shine. They had a really realistic look, even not yet weathered.
Once everything set, I rubbed here and there with some more pigments, and to even out the tracks and the wheels, used an airbrush to spray a little dust over the chassis. Not through the airbrush itself, but placing some pigments an inch away from the tank, and then with 12-15 PSI, blowing it towards the vehicle. A real sandstorm! Only a minor one…
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